Introducing
the Bodygrip

ADRIAN RIDDLE tests what looks likely to be a useful new piece of equipment to add to the keepers armory

The new BMI Bodygrip traps are, in my opinion, an excellent addition to the keeper's repertoire. I was asked to trial some by the importers soon after their approval in the Spring traps Approval Order 1995. There are millions of these traps in use in North America, Canada and various Scandinavian countries, yet it still took nearly two years for scientists and ministers to approve them for use in England, Wales and Scotland.

Rather than relying on an animal to step onto a plate as in the Fenn type traps, the Bodygrip has a trigger to release the spring, which in this case is of a hairpin type. The trigger is situated in the center of the trap, in profile an upright, narrow 'X' shape which closes in a butterfly action so that in an empty trap the bars of the 'X' become horizontal. Any catch therefore is positive because the victim is actually in the trap when it 'fires', so there is no chance of foul catching. This is an important consideration, especially in the light of the Mc Fall Bill.

There is no excuse for having an animal (no matter what kind of vermin) dancing about in a trap on the end of a chain, waiting to be discovered by the first passer-by. These traps have springs strong enough to make death virtually instantaneous. I nearly gave up trapping altogether when a trap shut on two fingers (it was painful enough to make me dash to the toilet before I had another ,accident!).

The trap, seen from the victim's viewpoint is simply a hole roughly 12Omm square with a trigger in the center. The trigger, made of two wire L's in the shape of a triangle, can be baited or disguised as a twig by sliding on a piece of dead nettle stalk or elder. The sensitivity of this trigger can be adjusted by gently pushing it with a twig until it rocks backwards and forwards with case. Naturally the twig should be long enough to keep your fingers out of the trap if you should push too far! Movement of the trigger releases the catch holding the two 'halves' of the trap together. Believe me, these traps are powerful, yet they are very light and compact to carry, being constructed basically from 5mm steel bar. There is also no safety catch.

I found the fine trigger setting was too sensitive when used in baited tunnels on the ground - I caught two mice to start with. Since then, rats, squirrels and a big dog mink have fallen prey to the traps. The mink was stone dead, in the tunnel, something I never achieved with a Mk 6 Fenn, which convinces me that the Bodygrip is a humane trap.

The setting of the trap seems a bit fiddly at first but as with anything new, the knack is achieved with practice. I think for anyone trying these traps out, it is well worth getting someone to show you the easiest method. I well remember a YTS lad I once had, shouting for help halfway through setting a Mk 6 Fenn (Ed - Our photographer had no problem with the Bodygrip, and all fingers are still present).

The traps are not self- supporting and therefore need to be stabilized, and there are several methods of doing this. A metal stabilizer which is pushed into the ground can be supplied, but I found that four nails, in two pairs, in a piece of wood and bent outwards were ideal for closing the trap onto.

Alternatively, two 12-25mm diameter pegs driven into the ground making a wide 'V' are suitable for resting it on. The tunnels present the biggest problem because the spring operates horizontally outwards, seen from above a narrow 'V' to a wide 'V' when sprung. Obviously to allow the trap to be placed in a standard tunnel, there will have to be a 'T' shape cut out. This isn't as difficult as it sounds, unless you have stone tunnels, and I have had success using tunnels made from wire netting and weld mesh which are easy to make and disguise in situ'.

Some of my baited tunnels were raided by a badger, so to avoid any further problems I set a trap on a pole going over the release pen fence where squirrels often climbed over to raid a food hopper. Sure enough, a couple of days later the trap was hanging down with its victim. I admit that it is a bit of a fiddle to set a trap inside a tunnel already stapled to a pole, but I didn't have to worry about catching a badger. The traps seem quite versatile even though we have to use them in tunnels, something fur trappers don't have to consider.