Trap Dyes & Tunnels

TRAP & SNARE DIP


Why dip? Well it definitely can extend the life of your traps. They don't "grind and bind" like when they’re rusty and somehow always seem to stay 'cleaner'. Less mud adheres to absorb scents. Plus the 'black' or 'brown' finish makes them less visible.

For most trap dips and dyes to work properly the trap needs to have been de-greased and a light surface coating of rust allowed to develop. This permits the dip to penetrate the 'pores' of the metal and seal it.

Few dips/dyes will work on plated steel, the pores are all sealed up, so it's not as effective on traps made from such materials. Certainly it works a treat on Bodygrips and Fenn mole traps.

The Magnum Trap Co has been around a while now, but actually started life over twenty five years ago as Moucher Products. In those pretty much pre-internet days we produced a small catalogue of what we liked to think of as 'professional' products for ferreters and to a lesser extent trappers.

Early on we brought in a consignment of trap-dip we thought would be useful with the BMI Bodygrips we had just got approved for UK use and more especially with the Fenn mole traps, very much our favourite mole trap at the time. It came highly recommended to us for the clean and durable furnish it gave when properly applied.
"Properly applied" was the problem.
The product had to be diluted with high octane petrol and traps dipped into a bucket of it in high temperatures, which in the UK more or less means a heat wave. Get it wrong – and "one or two" did - and boy it stays sticky. One well known, but here 'nameless', gentleman dipped his traps and hung them from the washing line to dry. It was not a hot day! They left a long stretch of drips down the garden path that trod indoors - you can guess the rest! Done properly though it produced a super finish.

Requests for some form of trap dip/dye have kept coming in and following pressure from a particularly good customer we had a word with one of our American suppliers who recommended, guess what…… Andy Stoe's Speed Dip and also Dakotaline trap and snare dip we already stock.

Speed Dip

All this was of course a long time ago and, all the joking to one side, Speed Dip by Andy Stoe, with a quick drying formula, does produce a super and very durable finish... but you do need to stick to the instructions to get it to do what it says on the tin. And, most important, you need to use the right stuff to dilute it !

The largest complaint Andy gets from users of his Speed Dip is the tacky finish or the black/brown residue left on their hands when handling dipped traps, which as we said above, is usually the result of users buying the least expensive unleaded petrol they can find. You get what you pay for! Spend a bit more and use what the Americans call White Gas to dilute Speed Dip. This can be found in most hardware and camping stores under the name of Coleman fuel although, as they say on TV and radio, ... "other makes are available". Using White Gas to dilute Speed Dip will result in that hard, shiny, smooth finish on your traps which is not sticky or tacky to the touch.

The recommended mix is 3:1 meaning three parts White Gas to one part Andy Stoe's Speed Dip.

There is no need to lightly rust your traps prior to using Speed Dip... you can simply pull brand new traps from the box, dip them in the trap dip/white gas mixture, hang them to dry for a few days and they will be ready to go.

Store your Speed Dip mixture in a tight sealing container such as a five gallon lidded bucket and you can dip traps whenever it becomes necessary.

Speed Dip

Dakotaline Trap and Snare Dip

This is what Dakotaline say:

"Dakotaline Trap and Snare Dip is a product that Mark Steck developed over a period of 7 years of testing. Works equally well on snares as it does on traps. No tacky or sticky finish, no petroleum products to mix with, it is odourless and dries fast. This dip mixes with water ... NOT PETROL!!"

DO NOT FREEZE!

So that's it – we just brought in a few tins in to start with and we'll see how it goes.

Dakotaline trap dip

Cubby Tunnels

BE PROFESSIONAL

PROTECT YOUR TRAPS AGAINST NON-TARGET SPECIES

It is only sensible to prevent non-target's entering any trap you have set. To take the cynical, yet entirely practical view, if a trap is fired by or catches the 'wrong target' it is effectively out of action until it is checked and re-set. Catching non-targets makes you a very ineffective trapper. I remember an old Fred J Taylor, dead now for some years, once saying to me that a good angler was one who could say "I'm going out to catch roach today" – and have the level of skill to do exactly that. It is an entirely different approach to saying "I'm going fishing today". There is an immense difference. The same attitude applies even more to trapping.

The shortcut to being a good trapper? Before you set a single trap take the time to study your target, know your quarry, it's habits and it's preferred environment. Put your trap where the target will easily find it and accept it's presence.

When trapping with lethal traps you have an obligation, both moral and legal, to go out and only catch what you are going out to catch. Unlike fishing you can't just put them back!

Risk-assess your proposed area of operations before you start. I know the words themselves smack of 'Health and Safety' but in today's 'blame' culture one silly mistake for not taking a few minutes to think things through could cost you dear. And write it down too, then if there is an incident you can at least show you gave things a bit of thought!

To help you Magnum Trap Co Ltd offer a range of cubby / tunnels. These are all quality UK made products and should last the life of your trap. A cubby is a dead-end unit and a tunnel is exactly what it's name implies, open at both ends.

Kania entrance tunnel

Kania cubby tunnel

For the KANIA2000 we offer versatile entrance protection that can be used up on a tree or on the ground, and we have one constructed of welded steel mesh and an alternative made from sheet material. Both versions are brown plastic coated for no maintenance and long life, are easy to use, feature a side entrance, and stack for easy storage and transport. Full instructions sent with item.

Instructions on how to use the Magnum Kania Cubby Entrance Tunnel

Magnum bodygrip tunnel

For the BMI Bodygrip's #55, #110 and #116 we offer the Magnum Trap Cubby/Tunnel. These versatile units can be used as dead-end cubbies or as through tunnels. Designed for use with bodygrip's they feature roof-mounted clips, but these are easily removed if you wish to protect other trap types. They have loops for easy pegging down or screwing to wherever you want them.

Manufactured from welded steel mesh they are brown plastic coated for no maintenance and long life and stack for easy storage and transport. Originally developed by us in association with the late Nigel Shearing.

Instructions on how to use the Magnum Bodygrip Cubby

WCS Tube trap end caps

For the WCS Tube Trap we offer push-on black plastic end caps. The WCS Tube Trap needs no tunnel type protection, it is after-all incorporated within it's own tunnel. It has been developed for use on targets up to and including mink and has a diameter of 114mm. The caps allow the WCS Tue Trap to be converted to a dead-end trap ( single–end entry ) which is great in roof spaces and enable trappers to reduce the entry aperture to one suitable for the intended target.

A short guide to the use of Magnum Tube Trap end caps

Thoroughly de-grease and 'weather' all traps before use to remove any residual smell.

Cut a notch or drill a hole in the cap where it will fit over the pegging-down hole in the trap, so that the trap can be still be securely fixed in position after the cap is fitted.

The plastic end caps are designed to be a very tight fit on the Tube Trap and you may find it useful to warm the cap in hot water before pushing it on.

With one end closed and baited at that end traps are useful for the capture of grey squirrels in gardens or lofts.

To reduce the risk of non-targets entering the trap simply fit a cap as above and cut an appropriate sized entrance hole. It is best that the bottom of the entrance hole follows the line of the trap wall at the bottom so that the target can walk into the trap without hindrance.

NEVER PUT YOUR HANDS INTO A SET TRAP

The WCS TUBE TRAP is very effective but needs to be set as finely as possible so that the slightest pressure on the treadle plate causes it to fire.

All traps should be set and checked in accordance with current legislation.